This photo dates back to around 1890 and is the first known picture of a surfer.
The photo was taken in Diamond Head, Oahu and shows a young Hawaiian man wearing a traditional loincloth holding what was a typical wooden surfboard. Missionary’s to the island tried to stomp out the tradition of surfing labeling it, for some unfathomable reason, as “ungodly.”
Thank goodness the natives gave them a friendly Hawaiian “up yours” and surfing survived.
“Ungodly”! Agh. That itself is ungodly.